Sunday, 18 December 2011

Top Seven Common Riding Lawn Mower Problems and Solutions

!±8± Top Seven Common Riding Lawn Mower Problems and Solutions

Riding lawn mowers are valuable and incredibly useful tools that can save time and energy spent on yard work. However, riding lawn mowers can have problems and need maintenance. Listed below are seven (7) common riding lawn mower problems along with trouble shooting tips. If a problem cannot be solved from the advice laid out in this article, contact a repair shop.

NOTE: These materials are prepared for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals. Such individuals should seek the assistance of a service technician or dealer.

Problem 1: Engine Will Not Crank

Sometimes the simplest solution may fix this riding lawn mower problem. Confirm that all the safety features of the riding lawn mower are functioning correctly. Make sure the mowing deck is not engaged, the parking brake is on and the operator is seated on the riding lawn mower. If one of the safety switches has not been properly activated the riding lawn mower will not start.

The next potential issue to check is the riding lawn mower's battery. In rare cases, the battery cable leads can work loose from the battery terminals. The black negative battery cable must be attached securely to the negative battery terminal. The negative terminal will be marked with a "NEG", "N", or "-" notation. The red positive battery cable should be connected securely to the positive battery terminal and will be marked with a "POS", "P", or "+" notation.

IMPORTANT WARNING: electrolyte is diluted sulfuric acid. Use extreme care to avoid spilling. It can destroy clothing and burn your skin. Test the battery to determine its condition. This can be accomplished by checking the specific gravity of each cell with a hydrometer. A fully charged cell will measure 1.250 specific gravity. Verify that the fluid level in the battery is adequate. If the fluid level is low, fill with distilled water so that it rests just below the split rings; then charge the battery at 5 amps maximum charge for 30 minutes until all cells measure 1.250 specific gravity. If all cells are unable to reach 1.250 specific gravity, replace the battery.

If the battery is in working order, locate the fuse holder(s) and inspect to see if a fuse is blown. Refer to the operator's manual to find the fuse holder(s) location. Check for loose, bare, or pinched wires and replace any blown fuse with the proper amperage automotive fuse. Finally, ensure the engine ground wire is in fact grounded. There should be a black ground wire running from the engine to a non-painted metal surface on the frame or a mounting bolt.

NOTE: Not all riding lawn mowers are equipped with an engine ground wire to frame.

Problem 2: Engine Cranks, But Does Not Start

If the riding lawn mower will not start, check the fuel level. The engine will not fire if there is not enough fuel in the carburetor. It is also possible the fuel line is clogged or blocked. Clean the line and replace the fuel filter to solve this problem.

Make sure the throttle and/or choke is in the proper position. This position can vary from model to model of riding lawn mower. Consult the operator's manual for the proper positioning of the choke and throttle for the riding lawn mower in question.

Faulty spark plugs or disconnected wires can also cause the engine to crank but not start. Run a diagnosis on the spark plug wire connection by using a spark plug tester to see if any plugs are faulty. Clean the gap, making sure it is set properly or replace any faulty spark plugs.

Problem 3: Engine Is Smoking

The most common cause of an engine smoking is having too much oil. Examine the oil level and remove any excess oil if overfilled. The problem should go away once the excess oil burns off. If the smoking persists, it could be possible the engine is losing its crankcase vacuum. Loss of crankcase vacuum can be caused by a broken or improperly seated dipstick, dipstick tube, or valve cover as well as a defective engine breather assembly or other internal engine damage. Replace any defective parts to restore crankcase vacuum pressure.

Problem 4: Unusual and Excessive Vibration

Blades, pulleys and spindles should not be bent or damaged. Mowing over a large object such as rocks, roots, sewer lids etc. can cause damage to the parts. Any damaged parts should be replaced.

A twisted or damaged belt may also be the culprit. All belts should be in good shape and properly routed. Replace the belt if it's torn or shows signs of wear.

Vibrations can also be caused by loose or missing mounting bolts, running the engine at a low RPM, or an improperly adjusted cutting deck.

Problem 5: Bagging, Discharging, or Mulching Poorly

There are a few actions that can be taken to minimize problems with the bagging, discharging and mulching. First, check the engine speed. The engine must be operating at full throttle for the bagging, discharging or mulching functions to work properly. Proper set-up of the deck is critical to the quality of cut. The deck should be level side to side and always lower in the front than the back by 3/8 of an inch. If that does not solve the problem, sharpen or replace the mower blades.

NOTE: Make sure the proper blade is being used for the correct application.

Operating conditions such as wet or exceptionally tall grass can cause poor functionality. To remedy these situations, always allow the lawn to dry prior to cutting, and if the grass is too tall, mow with the deck at a higher setting before mowing at the normal level. Try mowing at a slower rate to get a better and cleaner cut. Lastly, clean out any dirt and debris that has built up on the underside of the deck.

Problem 6: Mower Will Not Cut In Reverse

This is not a problem at all -- it is a safety feature. The cutting deck must be disengaged before the tractor can be shifted into reverse. However if the riding lawn mower was produced in 2005 or later it may be equipped with reverse mowing technology. This allows the operator to mow in reverse. Refer to the operator's manual for instructions.

Problem 7: Tractor Will Not Move Freely In Neutral

Check the operating manual to ensure the transmission relief valve is in the proper position. If it does not move in neutral, make sure the brake is fully releasing.


Top Seven Common Riding Lawn Mower Problems and Solutions

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Monday, 12 December 2011

Toro 38381 18-Inch 15 Amp Electric 1800 Power Curve Snow Thrower

!±8± Toro 38381 18-Inch 15 Amp Electric 1800 Power Curve Snow Thrower

Brand : Toro | Rate : | Price : $289.00
Post Date : Dec 12, 2011 02:00:12 | Usually ships in 24 hours

  • Toro Power Curve snow thrower with new zip deflector
  • Larger wheels, ergonomic handle, and 15 amp motor for extra power
  • Cuts up to 18 inches wide and 10 inches deep in one pass and throws up to 30 feet
  • 160-degree adjustable chute deflects the snow in different directions
  • Ships in Certified Frustration-Free Packaging

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Thursday, 27 October 2011

Black & Decker MM1800 18-Inch 12 amp Corded Electric Lawn Mower

!±8± Black & Decker MM1800 18-Inch 12 amp Corded Electric Lawn Mower

Brand : Black & Decker | Rate : | Price : $175.99
Post Date : Oct 27, 2011 13:00:42 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


  • Corded electric lawn mower with 12 amp motor for plenty of power for mulching or bagging
  • Lightweight design makes it easy to push and maneuver; produces zero emissions
  • Folds down for easy storage; 1-touch heigh adjustment
  • 18-inch deck size; weighs 46 pounds
  • 2-year limited warranty; includes rear bag assembly and mulch plug

More Specification..!!

Black & Decker MM1800 18-Inch 12 amp Corded Electric Lawn Mower

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Wednesday, 19 October 2011

Small Engine Maintenance - Float Style Carburetors

!±8± Small Engine Maintenance - Float Style Carburetors

Float style carburetors are common on small engines used on gas powered outdoor equipment, in particular the lawn and garden tractor. Many times when the engine is running rough or is hunting badly (engine speed not constant) it is because the carburetor needs a good cleaning and service.

Preparation

Record the engine type and serial number then obtain the relevant carburetor kit, engine and filter gaskets. Prepare a clean work area, an area of NO SMOKING or NAKED FLAME (gasoline vapors ignite very easily). Basic tools required are set of wrenches (socket or open ended), needle nose pliers, can of carburetor cleaner, a container to clean parts and a container to store parts.

Carburetor Removal

Take a photograph or make a pencil sketch of the choke linkage, governor linkage and springs connected to the carburetor. This will save a great deal of heartache when you come to reassemble. Shut off fuel to carburetor before removing the fuel line to the carburetor.  Some have a fuel shut off valve, if not clamp the rubber fuel hose with a G clamp, or drain into a clean container.

Remove the air filter, the carburetor fixing nuts (screws) and governor spring.  Ease the carburetor away from the engine, twisting as you do so to disengage the Z shape linkages to the choke and throttle valves. Note that there will be fuel still in the bowl at the base of the carburetor. Tip carburetor upside down to let the fuel drain out into a container.

Carburetor Disassembly

Now that you have the complete carburetor in your hand and before attempting to take it apart, look for the two screw (some have only one) with springs under the screw head.  These will be the idle and high speed adjustment screw.  Count the number of turns required to screw home the needle, about one & one and a half for the main jet and 1 time for the idle jet.  Make a note as this will be the setting will to be used later.

Remove the high speed and idle adjusting screw, clean and place in a container ready for reassembling. Remove the bowl fixing nut, on some carburetors this nut is where the high speed  adjustment  screw is located.  Clean the nut and replace washer if required.  Those that house the high speed needle will have one or two small fuel transfer holes. These do get clogged - clean out with thin wire (obtain thin floral arranging wire from a craft shop). The float is next, watch out for the fuel inlet needle and how it is attached to the float hinge.  Some of the brass floats do leak after a time, check by shaking float to hear if fuel is sloshing about, if so replace the float.

Use carburetor cleaner and spray outside, then the inside of the carburetor, the air and needle orifices. WATCH YOUR EYES - USE GOGGLES. Ensure that the choke and butterfly valves move freely and that the throttle and choke return springs are closing the valves. 

If they are weak or broken then replace them by unscrewing the butterfly valve and removing spindle, then reassemble with new springs. Inside the venturi at the throttle valve end, there are 2 or 3 small holes (need to move the valve to open position to see them). I use a staple with one leg bent straight and using needle pliers cleaned out those ports. DO NOT FORCE IF STAPLE IS LARGER IN DIAMETER THAN THE PORT DIAMETER.

Reassemble

Insert fuel needle and float. Fit the bowl to the carburetor with a new 'O' ring. Screw in the high speed and idle needles (don't forget the tension springs, 'O' ring and washer) until they just seat, then  back off the screws by the number of turns you recorded when disassembling.  These settings should    enable the engine to start, if not, screw both needles back in until they just seat. Back off the idle screw one turn and the high speed by 1&1/2 turns. Final needle adjustment is done when the engine tests are conducted.  

Using the photos taken or your sketch, insert the governor and choke linkage, then with a new gasket fit the carburetor to the engine body.  Reconnect the governor spring into the hole on the throttle cam, usually the same hole as the governor linkage. Reconnect fuel line and filter cover (with new gasket) to the body of the carburetor. Replace worn or dirty air filters

Adjustment

Start engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature (3-5 minutes).  Set the throttle control to the maximum speed position, then turn the high speed mixture control in (clockwise) slowly until the engine runs erratic. Note that screw position.  Now back off the screw (counter clockwise) until the engine again begins to run erratic. Note that screw position, then screw back in to the mid position at which point the engine should be running smoothly.

Set the throttle control to idle or slow position and adjust the idle mixture screw in the same manner as you did with the high speed mixture control. Some times after setting the idle screw you may need to go back and readjust the high speed setting.

Disclaimer - This article is intended as a guide and is generic and therefore I cannot be held liable for injury or damage. There are many types of carburetors used on small engines, each with their own means of controlling the fuel/air mixture to the engine. However the above is typical of many carburetors used on small engines that I've serviced and repaired during the years I owned an outdoor power equipment sales and service business.


Small Engine Maintenance - Float Style Carburetors

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Thursday, 13 October 2011

Using a Tow Behind Aerator and Benefits of Aeration

!±8± Using a Tow Behind Aerator and Benefits of Aeration

What are the benefits of lawn aeration?

Aerating your lawn using a two behind aerator aids your lawn in being healthier and greener by:

1) Decreasing compaction in the root zone of the lawn.

2) Allowing for better draining therefore decreasing excess water & run off.

3) Decreasing strain on grass due to drought which decreases chances of damage.

4) Assists the break up and decomposition of lawn thatch.

5) Enables fertilizer, water, air, and other nutrients to more easily reach the grass roots.

6) Encourages faster establishment when over-seeded.

How to tow aerators work?

Tow and pull aerators have an attachment that allows you to hook it up to a riding mower or tractor.  For proper function, you may have to add additional weight if soil is too hard.  The best way to use the tow behind aerator is driving it in long straight lines, or in a circle pattern.  Multiple passes on hard lawns will make the best outcome.

How do you use a Tow Aerator?

Five Simple Steps in Using a Pull Behind Aerator:

1) Connect the pull behind aerator to your tractor or mower.

2) Add weight to the aerator.  You can do this by adding water, lead, or sand depending on the aerator.  The amount you need varies depending on how hard your soil is.

3) Do a short test run to make sure you have the aerator set at the proper depth.

4) Aerate your lawn in long passes or a circular pattern as previously mentioned.  Go over your lawn twice if it is necessary.

5) Clean the tines of the aerator.  Use a small rag, water, and a screwdriver to remove any stuck on dirt and small rocks.

The greatest benefit to a pull aerator is that they are much wider that any other type of aerator.  They have more tines and cover more area in one pass saving you tons of time when you aerate.  However, this benefit also makes them harder to work with, so you have to make sure you take long passes or make large circles.  One other benefit of tow behind aerators is that they are comparatively cheap because you only have to buy the attachment & not an additional tractor or mower.  Also, they usually have multiple functions such as the ability to over-seed & apply fertilizer as well as aerate.

Ultimately, when you buy a tow aerator, you will actually spend a lot less than renting one every time you need to aerate.  The pull behind aerators only cost from 0 to 0 when renting costs are to 0 for one day, plus when you rent you have to arrange for pick up and drop off.  At those prices it only takes a few times of aerating to pay for buying the attachment versus renting (plus time).  Having a tow aerator attachment will also raise the value of your tractor or riding mower.


Using a Tow Behind Aerator and Benefits of Aeration

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Monday, 10 October 2011

Toro Recycler 20333 Review

!±8± Toro Recycler 20333 Review

This self propelled lawn mower is one of the better options if you are looking for a good set of features to choose from. The Toro Recycler 20333 is really one of the better self propelled lawn mowers in the market and its market price of around 0 is pretty much fare. However, it does have a number of factors which add to its pros as well as cons.

The engine in this model is pretty easy to start and it can be done so with either one or two pulls of the ignition cord and can be hence maneuvered after start pretty easily. Furthermore this has a mowing pause option which allows the user to put a halt to the mowing without stopping the engine which not only helps to lengthen the life of the motor but also to very easily move aside any kind of obstacles which may be in the way. Furthermore the Toro Recycler 20333 can pretty efficiently bag and mulch and is pretty well in both modes. However this machine works visibly well when it is discharging the clippings to the side.

Although this blade brake mechanism which present in the mower is one of its best facility, there are also other feature like Personal Pace Control which allows you to control the speed of the mower when the user is walking with it. This provides an extra measure of control over the machine when the user is operating the device. Further more if you have tall grass then you need not worry because the Toro Recycler 20333 is pretty good when it comes to handling tall and even wet and tough grass.

Due to its several good features consumers have pegged the Toro Recycler 20333 a pretty good option for buyers looking for a budget pick. However, one also needs to look at the drawbacks of this mower to judge its affectivity. Not only does mulching get mixed reviews but there are also durability issues. Furthermore there is also the matter of complex height adjustments. However, one should give this model a go as its pros outshine the cons.
This self propelled lawn mower is one of the better options if you are looking for a good set of features to choose from. The Toro Recycler 20333 is really one of the better self propelled lawn mowers in the market and its market price of around 0 is pretty much fare. However, it does have a number of factors which add to its pros as well as cons.

The engine in this model is pretty easy to start and it can be done so with either one or two pulls of the ignition cord and can be hence maneuvered after start pretty easily. Furthermore this has a mowing pause option which allows the user to put a halt to the mowing without stopping the engine which not only helps to lengthen the life of the motor but also to very easily move aside any kind of obstacles which may be in the way. Furthermore the Toro Recycler 20333 can pretty efficiently bag and mulch and is pretty well in both modes. However this machine works visibly well when it is discharging the clippings to the side.

Although this blade brake mechanism which present in the mower is one of its best facility, there are also other feature like Personal Pace Control which allows you to control the speed of the mower when the user is walking with it. This provides an extra measure of control over the machine when the user is operating the device. Further more if you have tall grass then you need not worry because the Toro Recycler 20333 is pretty good when it comes to handling tall and even wet and tough grass.

Due to its several good features consumers have pegged the Toro Recycler 20333 a pretty good option for buyers looking for a budget pick. However, one also needs to look at the drawbacks of this mower to judge its affectivity. Not only does mulching get mixed reviews but there are also durability issues. Furthermore there is also the matter of complex height adjustments. However, one should give this model a go as its pros outshine the cons.


Toro Recycler 20333 Review

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Friday, 23 September 2011

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